Flabbergasted

The other day at the St. Lawrence farmer’s market, a strawberry farmer was handing out free samples of the fruit to bystanders, straight from the basket. A woman walked by, turned up her nose, and said, “Ugh! Ew, that’s dirty. You can’t eat that.”

I’ve never seen a more thoroughly bewildered person in my life, than that farmer right then.

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52 Titles: M.F.K. Fisher’s “The Art of Eating”

This book is actually five of her early titles, bound into one, so I will count it as five — a welcome loophole, as I was falling behind schedule and this put me back on track.

M.F.K. (Mary Frances Kennedy) Fisher was a locavore and proponent of nose-to-tail eating before either of those concepts became gastro-fashionable. She is from a different era, when cooks used all parts of their groceries because it made fiscal, not moral or ethical, sense.

My favourite of the bunch was “Consider the Oyster.” There are two kinds of people in this world: those that love to eat oysters, and those who would gag to the point of vomiting from the slippy, cool, salty texture. It is a love letter to the most beautiful food we eat alive.

The cookbook/memoir is a breezy read, one that can be finished in a single sitting — unless you are inspired to get up and walk to your nearest fishmonger because the sound of Oysters a la Bazeine is too much to resist:

Oysters a la Bazeine, or Honi Soit Qui Mal Y Pense [ed's note: translated means "Evil to him who evil thinks."]

  • Have on hand adequate supplies of sauce Béchamel, sauce Soubise, and velouté. (Recipes can be found in Escoffier’s Guide Culinaire, in Dumas’ Grand Dictionnaire de Cuisine, or even in Andre Simon’s French Cook Book.)
  • Prepare a roux of chopped chives, butter and rice-flour, and set it aside.
  • Slice truffles paper-thin, and cut into the shapes of dolphins, crabs, and other sea-monsters. Set them aside.
  • Poach brook trout, preferably alive, in a court-bouillon made with a good dry champagne instead of ordinary wine and water. Set them aside.
  • Make a marinade, using fine instead of wine-vinegar, and in it marinate small cubes of Parma ham for several hours, or until a faint iridescence appears. Drain, and set aside.
  • Prepare croutes by browning thick slices of fine white bread in Strasbourg goose-fat, and do not set aside.
  • Instead, place them quickly on heated plates. Spread each tranche with Béchamel and then the roux. Set a trout carefully upon it, and coat with Soubise. Over this, sprinkle the cubes of Parma ham, and then a thin layer of velouté. Decorate lavishly with the truffle-silhouettes, and serve at once under bells with a modest but well-bred Sainte-Croix du Chateau Pinardino ‘08.
  • Or fry oysters and serve with ale.

Hahaha! Like I said, Fisher was an antithesis to the Chowhound-esque gourmand, happily mocking fussy, molecular gastronomers before that was a thing, too.

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52 Titles: Charles Bukowski’s “Slouching Toward Nirvana”

Charles Bukowski is one of those writers it seems everyone but me read in high school. I could have started with one of his more famous ones such as Ham on Rye — a coming-of-age story appropriate for high schoolers, who, like Henry Chinaski (Bukowski’s autobiographical alter-ego), are obsessed with alienating themselves, hating their dysfunctional family, pondering the monotony of life and their own acne. But, I also want to learn how to read poetry, and this one was cheap at the used bookstore, so “Slouching” it was. It’s a posthumous collection of poems from the tail end of his years, which is kind of perfect — that’s when you’re most honest, right? Old people aren’t crazy, they’re just tired of pretending to be normal.

What I discovered is that Charles Bukowski created whiny, needy, brainless caricatures out of the women in his life. And, that if you are to judge a city by one of its citizens, then Bukowski is the embodiment of Los Angeles (or what I imagine it to be; never been), with his Hunter S. penchant for horse-betting, hating on other celebrities, booze, conspicuous consumption, nice cars and being sour even when it’s sunny out. But, in his better moments when he’s contemplating the meaning of life in the twilight of his years, he can be alright. He’s acutely aware about what his literary superstardom has turned him into. To wit:

why oh why and ohy why not?

as I back my $35,000 car
down the driveway of my paid-for home, I wonder what happened
to the errand boy, the sleeper in parks, the beggar of
drinks, the failed suicide, the rejected young writer, the
ugly lover of ugly women, the certified failure, the pitied
clown.
I back out and now I’m on the street and I punch the radio, luck
on to Brahms, gun around a slow driver and then I am on the
freeway.

I take the fast lane on the freeway, the powerful motor silent as
Brahms dances about the interior, I am alone and astonished,
pay over $20,000 in quarterly taxes and still manage to
write some of the best poetry
of our time.

Or about literary bullshit:

cicada

writers love to use the word
“cicada” in a poem.
it makes them believe that
they are there, that they
have done it.
every time I see this word
in a poem, I think, damn
it, haven’t the editors
caught on yet?
that it’s a con?
a way to milk the game?

and look at me:
here I’m using it:
“cicada.”

well, that means that
this poem surely will get
published.

see?

it works.

But mostly, he’s good at being morose:

checkmate

we are broken down bit by bit,
we
drain away by the minute, the hour, the week, the
month, the year, we
leak away
in cafes, backyards, stadiums, parking lots in
parlors of chance, in movie houses, at church
at clambakes,
we dissolve
we dissolve while
putting on our shoes, while
putting out the cat, while
turning out the light,
while clipping our toenails.
so we continually dissolve from substance to
shadow, endlessly
dissolve while listening
to bad music or in total silence,
forever dissolve
while reading old love letters and new books,
during peace and war,
on and off TV.
thus our lives dissolve and disappear between the helmet and
a high-heeled shoe, between an olive seed and a buried
corpse, between a lost key and the exposed film, between a
child’s smile and the magnolia’s scream.

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52 Titles: William Faulkner’s “The Sound and the Fury”

No, just… no.

I tried to read a book narrated in first person by a mentally challenged 33-year-old man, but about 30 pages in, I realized I had understood none of what I’d just read, and that it wasn’t worth the $8 I paid. Sorry.

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52 Titles: John McPhee’s “Coming into the Country”

I’ve always had an affection for books about folks who leave civilization and venture into the wild — chalk it up to a sanitized upbringing in the suburbs, littered with a structured week full of extracurriculars of gymnastics, piano, Chinese lessons and playdates. The only field for us kids to run in was a soon-to-be townhouse development, and it was mostly full of abandoned coffee cups belonging to construction workers, rocks, and bits of glass. I often tell people one day I’m going to live in a cabin with a vegetable garden and a pack full of dogs.

One of my favourites as a kid was My Side of the Mountain, which is about a 13-year-old boy who runs away from his cluttered New York City life to live on the land in the Catskills. He learns to forage, hunt, tan leather, train a peregrine falcon and build shelter. Like a prepubescent Thoreau.

I’d never read John McPhee before this (I know, shame me now), and having heard him described as a contemporary of Tom Wolfe and Hunter S. Thompson (two writers I like, but not love), I was in no rush to seek him out. It turns out McPhee is nothing like Wolfe and Thompson in subject matter or style — he’s more restrained, more studious, more inquisitive about the way he approaches his subjects. They are similar only in the sense that they went native: Wolfe dropped acid, Thompson drank mint juleps, and McPhee braved Alaska — snow upon snow, log cabins, bears, black flies, guns, trapping lines, snowshoes, rickety bush planes and all.

My first reaction to the book was pondering a visit Alaska, though this is of course exactly what the book does not condone, because human presence destroys what Coming Into the Country is trying to immortalize.

The loveliest part was how he constructed it, in three portraits: wild Alaska, urban Alaska, and remote bush Alaska. Coming Into the Country was published in 1976, when Alaska was up for grabs — statehood had just been granted; floods of Lower 48ers were moving up; the oil boom; native land claims; and the creation of national parks.

As a modern reading, Country functions as a nice companion piece to one of Sarah Palin’s memoirs, and it also memorializes what Alaska used to be: a wondrous, terrifying, impenetrable, wild place ruled by grizzly bears. It demanded an independent spirit (or cavalier lawlessness, even) if one wanted to live on the land.

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